Perodua viva spoiler

Install A Rear Car Spoiler..

While not everyone may feel they possess the ability to address their own automotive needs, the ability to install a rear car spoiler is a task that can be accomplished by most people if they follow basic directions closely. When a car owner installs a rear car spoiler it immediately makes an aesthetic impact on the car's appearance for the better, and in many cases affects the car's resale value in a positive fashion. The most important thing to remember when installing a rear car spoiler is to take your time to do a good and proper job and the result will be as good as any done by a professional.

The first step to install a rear car spoiler is to select the style and color that suits personal preference. It is always a wise move regardless of your mechanical skills to purchase a rear car spoiler that comes with all of the necessary hardware for installation. It is also prudent to purchase a complete rear car spoiler kit that contains clear and concise instructions for installation. While most of these are in the form of written instructions, some of the better rear car spoiler kits have how-to-videos that can really simplify the job.

After purchasing a rear car spoiler kit, take a tarp or blanket and cover the inside of the car's trunk and wipe the trunk lid on the exterior with a cloth to present a clean surface. The rear car spoiler kit should come with a set of rubber gaskets that are first installed on the feet of the car spoiler. There are also usually a set of drill guides that are easily attached to the spoiler next by using common masking tape. The next step to install a rear car spoiler is to align the spoiler in the proper position on the car, and then securely tape the drill guides to the car and remove the tape that held the guides to the spoiler. It is now a simple procedure to drill the holes in the car's trunk through the drill guide. Remove and discard the drill guides from the trunk lid.

The final step to install a rear car spoiler is to position the rear car spoiler, lining up the holes that have drilled and inserting the screws through the inside of the trunk lid into the spoiler finger-tight. After all of the screws have been installed in this manner, tighten the screws using a drill or a screwdriver and the job of installing a rear car spoiler is complete.

Thinking of to install parking sensor to your Viva?
This is maybe useful info to you.


Reversing sensor, also known as parking assist system, or backup computer alert system. Typically, parking sensor from the ultrasonic sensor (commonly known as probes), controller and display (or buzzer) and other components. Principle of ultrasonic distance measurement system, under the control of the controller, the ultrasonic emission sensor signals, when the encounter obstacles, the generated echo signal, the sensor receives the echo signal data processing by the controller to determine the obstacle position, distance and issued by the display of other warning signals, timely warning, so do the hearts of drivers reversing the "numbers" to make reversing easier. Parking sensor before the market several brand as much as 20 in price from 34 to one or two hundred thousand dollars, and many owners do not know what to compare and choose. By the author of parking sensor products on the market analysis, prompts the user to choose the six parking sensor notes.

1. Function

More complete functional should have a distance display parking sensor, audible alarm, regional alerts and orientation instructions, some products also have the Power On Self Test function. There is also currently on the market with voice alarm products, the feature gives the feeling is very direct, but the main problems is the alarm hysteresis, so that drivers brake late, the not practical.In accordance with the display is divided into parking sensor with LED display, also called ultrasonic backup sensor, and rearview monitor parking Sensor.
.

2. Performance

Performance mainly from the detection range, accuracy, stability and capture target display rate to consider. Detection range, most of the product range of 0.4 ~ 1.5m, a good product can reach 0.35 ~ 2.5m, shown in Figure 2. Wide range of parking sensor reversing always detected ahead of target, and the excessive pursuit of the minimum detection distance is meaningless, because the actual use must be fully considered when the inertia brake factors. Detection accuracy, mainly depends on two aspects: One, display resolution, the general products of 10 cm, while a good product can reach 1 cm; second is to look at measurement error, which shows the distance between the actual distance Error, 10cm diameter pipe can be placed in position around 1m comparison, the good product of measurement error should be less than 3cm. Show stability, is not a good reflector in the barrier case, the ability to consistently capture and stable showing obstacle distance. Capture the target rate, reflecting the parking sensor on the ability to capture moving objects. This is to prevent similar child or a cyclist suddenly from the rear view through the driver caused crashes less important. In short, reversing radar performance requirements are: measured accurately measured stability, range, capture speed.

3. Appearance Technology

As the car inside and outside decorations, displays and sensors installed to consider whether the appearance, and vehicles are coordinated. From the sensor shape, one can choose a button style and fusion of two, button-type sensor surface is flat, the surface of sensor fusion is a shape change, the pursuit of a natural transition with the rear bumper. Judging from the size, there are ultra-small, medium and large size, relatively large size of the atmosphere, relatively small, hidden, depending on the size of the rear bumper and personal preferences. From the color point of view, should be chosen with the vehicles after the bars the same or similar color. Monitors should be based on the driver's parking habits use front-or rear, and in order to clear, beautiful as the standard, some products can use both monitors.

4. Quality and Reliability

Parking sensor as automotive supplies, due to its higher quality and reliability requirements, the average consumer it is difficult to determine the index. Good quality products to provide better services, commitment to OZ and repairing a longer period, it is recommended you select the period of 2 years for repairing the product.

Tyre Care Tips

Save Your Pockets with Tyre care Tips!

Tyres are expensive, and of all the consumables in motoring tyres come second only to fuel in terms of cost. As with fuel consumption, the way you drive can impact on your tyre consumption.

If a tyre does develop a problem, it is useful to be able to identify what that problem is, so that you can prevent it recurring. The main problems are wheel alignment and incorrect tyre pressure. Don't just assume that when you have had your alignment checked that it will be correct; keep an eye on your tyre wear. Similarly, air pressure needs to be checked, even on recently fitted tyres.

However, your driving habits may impact on your tyre wear. It has been said that high speed driving can overheat tyres and result in the degradation of the rubber, resulting in the breakdown of the tyre. This is true, but generally your car should be fitted with tyres with speed ratings above the maximum speed of the car itself. Also, that heat build-up usually only occurs when the tyre is under-inflated. So high speed driving alone is not usually the sole reason for tyre failure - or else our motorways would be littered with cars needing tyres replaced.

Tyre wear is accelerated under hard driving, so the heavy footed driver, both on the accelerator and brake is likely to see higher tyre wear. If he adds high speed cornering he can expect to increase tyre wear even more.

Harsh braking wears down tread quicker, and it can lead to flat spots, especially on older cars with oval brake drums or uneven discs.

Inflation is key to keeping tyres in good safe condition. The air in the tyres warms up very quickly, even on a cold day, and when the tyre starts rolling it generates some heat, which heats up the air in the tyre, which expands thus creating a higher air pressure. So, when you drive a mile to the garage to set your tyre pressures, and they are at 32lbs instead of 30lbs, and you drop them by 2lbs you have actually reduced the pressure from the correct 30lbs.

Tyre pressures should always be checked at cold before you move the car - which is why tyre pressure monitoring systems that function as soon as you put the key in the ignition are better than ABS fed systems. (Most cars sold in Europe with TPMS have electronic sensors in the wheels that check tyre pressure automatically).

Incorrect tyre pressures have various outcomes. Firstly too low a pressure can result in uneven wear on the shoulder of the tyre. It can lead to overheating and tyre breakdown. It makes the suspension feel softer, and can make the car's handling sluggish and slow to react to steering input.

Too high a pressure results in uneven wear around the centre of the tread. With less contact on the road it makes wheelspin and skidding more likely, accelerating wear in the high pressure contact area. The car will have very light steering and in some situations it will be over-responsive to steering input and have a propensity to skid.

There are very few circumstances where reducing tyre pressure on the road can be recommended. Not even in snow and ice. However, if towing, or running a heavily laden vehicle it may be a requirement that the tyres are inflated to a higher pressure - see your vehicle owners' handbook for details.

Balancing your wheels is important for several reasons. Firstly, an imbalance in the wheels, especially front, will be felt as a vibration through the steering at some or all speeds. It can increase noise levels and make the car uncomfortable to drive. On the short to long term it can increase mechanical component wear in the track rod ends, ball joints, steering rack and even the wheel bearings can fail. If you have your wheels balanced after a new tyre fit or a puncture repair, be wary of any detrimental changes to your car's "feel", it may need the wheels rebalancing.

Another area that causes increased tyre wear is that of road surfaces. There isn't a great deal that the driver can do, other than be aware that on some road surfaces - even those that appear smooth, there may be a multiplying factor on tyre wear. A worst case example would be that tyres that might do 30,000 miles in the UK, might, under similar driving conditions in some areas of Norway or Sweden only do 20,000 miles or less. This is because the Scandinavian road surfaces are built to offer better surface drainage and grip due to their adverse weather conditions.

Spotting the Faults

Tyre pressure is best checked with the tyres cold, in the morning. Tyres should be inflated to the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations. However, when you buy replacement tyres you should check that they need to be inflated to the same level - some tyres operate batter at slightly different pressures.

Balancing. Any feel of vibration should be investigated, and the first stop is wheel balancing. If you are not happy with the response from one tyre fitter, use another.

Alignment is one of the bugbears. Every tyre depot claims to do wheel alignment but many just don't get it right, and that includes some very big names. So watch for uneven tyre wear and at the first sign of poor alignment or you can feel your steering pulling to one side under normal driving on a flat road get your car in and have it checked. You will be told that you may have kerbed the car, hit a pothole or similar, but have it checked by someone you can trust and who lets you see quite clearly what they are doing. If your tyre fitter doesn't use laser alignment then take it somewhere that does, and ask to see the figures.

Accounting for general wear requires tyre rotation. Most owner's manuals show the proper cycle for rotation.

Punctures can sometimes be avoided by removing objects just stuck in the tyre. Beware however, or removing penetrations from inflated tyres. You may be able to drive to a tyre depot with a nail in the tyre. This is because radial tyres have a soft butyl liner that seals around small penetrations to prevent sudden air loss. This minimises the risk of high speed sudden loss of pressure, and it allows a get to safety option. If you remove a screw or nail, the tyre will deflate quickly and you will need a roadside tyre change - not always the best place to do the job.

Tread Depth Law and The Effect of Tread Depth on Tyre Performance

Current tread depth legislation requires that car tyres must have a minimum of 1.6mm of tread in a continuous band throughout the central ¾ of the tread width and over the whole circumference of the tyre.

However, despite the law, it is generally recognised in the tyre industry that the legal limit is an extreme. Many tyre manufacturers state that they design tyres to function as well at 1.6mm as they do at 9mm (the accepted normal tread depth when new). That is a surprising statement for any tyre company to make, but some have said just that.

So, if a tyre performs as well at 1.6mm as it does at 9mm, what happens at 1.5mm? Is there a sudden drop in performance? Actually there isn't, because industry testing has shown that when a tyre reaches around 3.5mm in tread depth, the level of performance in the wet, in particular, starts to deteriorate, as does its dry handling characteristics.

The recommended point for change is accepted Europe-wide as being 3mm. So much so that ministerial cars in the UK have their tyres changed at, you guessed it, 3mm.

Why then the current legal limit of 1.6mm? There are several arguments against the change, some of which you may question. One is that the sudden change from 1.6mm to 3mm would have a serious impact on the pockets of hundreds of thousands of motorists who are already struggling to keep their cars on the road. Another is that it would require changing all the tyre moulds in use to increase the tyre wear indicator depth to 3mm. And of course Europe plays a part, as there would not be universal implementation of 3mm tread depth, requiring double standards in production and possibly in policing.

The reality is that since tyres are now a global commodity it would almost require a global adoption of 3mm as a minimum. It doesn't take an Einstein to counter the arguments against 3mm, but until the legislation is in place you can make up your own mind, scrape by on 1.6mm, or be safe on 3mm. Your choice.

But before you make that choice, it might be worth your while having a look at the video indicated at the bottom of this article. It might make you change your mind.

Truck tyres currently have a 1mm legal minimum tread depth - which many are trying to drive up to 1.6mm - for exactly the same reasons as they want to see 3mm for car tyres.

Incidentally - you may wonder why the normal new tread depth is generally around 9mm. This is to do with the slip, ie distortion in a tyre block, and its level of hysteresis. If you take an eraser and holding it vertically, draw it across a desk, you will see that it distorts before it loses grip - that is what we call "slip". If you increase or decrease the length of rubber you are flexing, the slip increases or decreases. It becomes obvious that too much slip would make a vehicle unstable. Remember that the compound is a compromise too and the ratio of slip to tread block and the compound used is all finely tuned. The industry norm is for car, van and SUV treads, 9mm.

The Impact of Tread Depth on Tyre Safety

The braking and grip performance of tyres in wet weather deteriorates considerably once the tread depth reduces below 3mm. This is because the main function of the tread pattern of a tyre is to evacuate water. As the tread depth decreases it gradually loses the ability to evacuate all water from the road surface under the tyre and the car will eventually aquaplane.

Many tyre tests have shown that the wet braking distances of a new tyre compared with a tyre with only 1.6mm of tread left on it are huge and can be the difference between life and death.

Tyre Rotation

Tyre wear rates differ depending on the axle on which the tyres are fitted and whether the vehicle is front or rear wheel drive. To extend the life of your tyres it is advisable to change tyre positions on a regular basis. Different tyre manufacturers may recommend different rotation periods, ranging from 2-6,000 miles. It is advisable to switch tyres from left to right periodically as well as from the back to the front of the vehicle.Certain high performance tyres are position specific and should not be rotated. If in doubt, contact a specialist tyre dealer.

There is some dispute over the fitting of a pair of new tyres to a car. Simple logic suggests that the car needs most traction at the drive axle. In some cases that would be true, for instance if you were constantly driving in muddy conditions and needed the grip to keep you moving. However, irrespective of the vehicle, front or rear wheel drive, or even 4x4, the typical vehicle is designed to understeer in skid conditions. That is, it ploughs forwards.Generally, backing off the power and the brakes will recover the vehicle from the skid, though not always.

By putting the grippier tyres on a front wheel drive car, it increases grip at the front, but equally increases the difference in traction/grip between the front and the rear tyres, so the rear tyres lose grip early and as a consequence the car is at risk of going into oversteer. For the average motorist oversteer usually means ending up rear end first into the field (if they are lucky). That argument can also apply to rear wheel drive vehicles, it is not about getting the power down on the tarmac, it is about keeping the rear end of the car in contact with the road.

With four wheel drive vehicles, rotation of tyres is much more important and all four tyres, ideally, should be replaced at the same time. So, location should not be an issue. If it is, the same rule applies, newer tyres to the rear.

Viva Fuel Comsumption

Perodua Viva - Fuel Consumption

Lets talk here about PERODUA VIVA



Perodua viva fuel consumption

Perodua Viva Details - Fuel Consumption = Most Fuel economic car in Malaysia

Perodua Viva Fuel Consumption - what a great savings!

Viva 1.0 (auto) RM0.1842 per kilometer-RM0.2
Viva 1.0 (Manual) RM0.1458-RM0.157 per kilometer
Viva 850 (manal) RM0.155 per kilometer
Viva 660 (Manual) RM0.14, RM0.149 per kilometer

Note: The Perodua Viva Fuel Consumption is an above average value (RM2.7/litre of fuel) of survey around the internet from Perodua Viva Owner. It is a real review by Perodua Viva 660, 850 and 1.0 cc owner.

Perodua Viva Prices

Perodua Viva 660cc MT Solid: RM28, 400
Perodua Viva 660cc MT Metallic: RM28, 800
Perodua Viva 850cc MT Solid: RM32, 500
Perodua Viva 850cc MT Metallic: RM32, 900
Perodua Viva 1000cc MT Solid: RM36, 800
Perodua Viva 1000cc MT Metallic: RM37, 200
Perodua Viva 1000cc AT Solid: RM39, 800
Perodua Viva 1000cc AT Metallic: RM40, 200
Perodua Viva 1000cc Premium MT Solid: RM40, 800
Perodua Viva 1000cc Premium MT Metallic: RM41, 200
Perodua Viva 1000cc Premium AT Solid: RM43, 800
Perodua Viva 1000cc Premium AT Metallic: RM44, 200

Perodua Viva Price On The Road

ViVa 660EX S * RM 28,400.00
ViVa 660EX M * RM 28,800.00
ViVa 850EX S * RM 32,500.00
ViVa 850EX M * RM 32,900.00
ViVa 1.0 SX * S RM 36,800.00
ViVa 1.0 SX M * RM 37,200.00
ViVa 1.0 SXi S * RM 40,800.00
ViVa 1.0 EZ * S RM 39,800.00
ViVa 1.0 EZ M * RM 40,200.00
ViVa 1.0 EZI * S RM 43,800.00
ViVa 1.0 EZI M * RM 44,200.00

Its a very economical car...

Note: - * S for Solid color. * M for Metallic.

Colurs available for Perodua Viva:

Solid: Ivory White
Metallic: Glittering Silver, Passion Red, Tropical dan Pearl Jade Green

Hot Bits : Exhaust System For Perodua Viva

Exhaust System For Perodua Viva!




There is a lot of difference after change to hotbits exhaust system.
sound is still smooth but when you push the paddle sound is so sporty.the important thing is pickup of the car is to many big difference.try this brand to know how it works.many people suggest to Hotbits brand.

Happy Hunting!

Perodua Viva Performance Spring By Pro - Ride

Below are the image of Perodua Viva using Pro - Ride Performance Springs!







You should consider the best parts for your viva..
Cool eh?

daihatsu storia X4 Versus Perodua Kelisa

The Storia X4 was developed by Daihatsu as a base model for domestic use in motorsport events. Accordingly, luxury items such as air-conditioning, electric windows etc were removed to keep the weight of the car to minimal levels (although power steering was a cost option). Production began on April 10th 1998, and ceased on 31st January 2004. In this time, only 829 cars were produced. Daihatsu did not produce the cars through normal production for sale, and all cars were special order only, and were only available in white.

The base car started with a derivative of the 660cc JB-DET engine, and is a 4-cylinder Twin-Cam DOHC DVVT Fuel-Injected Intercooled Turbo-Charged engine. These engines were shipped to DRS (Daihatsu Racing Services - Think of them as TRD), where the cylinder capacity was enlarged to 713cc, and forged internals added. The 713cc engine size was specifically engineered to enable the car to race in the 1.0 litre class, whereby turbo-charged cars engine size are given a mandatory multiple of x1.4 (to ensure a level playing field against n/a cars). Given the cylinder size of 713cc, a x1.4 multiple means that the cars effective engine size is 998.2cc, thereby being as close to the 1.0 litre limit as possible.

The 713cc engine runs an IHI RHF4B VF36 Ball Bearing Turbo with a Titanium Shaft and Turbine Wheel. Intercooler water spray is also fitted to help lower intake temperature. Rumour is that the engines were slightly de-tuned for sale by Daihatsu, and left the showroom running 18psi (1.24bar), producing 120ps. However, an adjustable actuator was fitted as standard, allowing the boost to be increased to around 24psi with no additional modifications required. A performance upgrade was also available directly from Daihatsu when ordering, which apparently produced 200ps!

The car has a 5-speed close ratio gearbox, clutch-type front & rear differential and permanent four-wheel drive. The overall weight of the car is approximately 820kgs, so the car has an effective power-to-weight ratio of 146ps per tonne.

Unsurprisingly, when the car was introduced in the Kei-Jidousha class (Japanese Mini Cars), it decimated the competition thanks to it's light weight, power and handling. The car also enjoyed success in the all Japan Rally Championship and the all Japan Dirt Trial Championship.

Consider to put this storia engine under your Kelisa's hood?

Myvi - TRD bodykit for Passo

Attention to all Perodua Myvi owners, there’s a TRD bodykit out there for the Toyota equivalent which is the Toyota Passo. Can’t wait to see Myvis on the road with this kit slapped on.

There are also alot of other bodykits available for the Passo.

Check Out also these type bodykit!
Passo Modellista
Passo Kenstyle
Passo Gialla
Passo Wald

Daihatsu Mira Versus Perodua Myvi

Daihatsu Japan has updated their Daihatsu Mira with a new model and guess what… the new facelift seems to sport headlamps that look like they belong to the Myvi family! A similiar design has been spotted on the new Perodua Kancil Replacement Model that has been seen doing testing rounds lately.

The Myvi - Viva Comparisons

Maybe some of you who are thinking of buying the Perodua Myvi are now considering buying the top of the range Perodua Viva 1000cc Premium instead. So better do a little comparison here.


Power

Interestingly, it seems that the same 1.0 liter DVVT EJ-VE engine in the Perodua Viva makes more torque than the Perodua Myvi’s 1.0 liter DVVT EJ-VE engine. The Viva claims to make 90Nm of torque at 3,600rpm, while the Myvi 1.0 liter only makes 88Nm at 3,600rpm – that’s a minor difference of only 2Nm though.

Since the Perodua Viva 1.0 liter would clearly beat the Myvi 1.0 in terms of power to weight ratio, so let’s compare the Myvi 1.3 to the Viva 1.0 Premium instead. The Myvi 1.3 weighs 955kg and puts out 86 horsepower. That’s a power to weight ratio of 0.09 horsepower per kg. As for the Perodua Viva 1000cc Premium, it weighs 800kg and puts out 60 horsepower – that gives it a power to weight ratio of 0.075 horsepower per kg.

So we can conclude that in a drag race, the Viva won’t be able to smoke it’s larger sibling in stock form. That doesn’t mean the Viva is terribly slow – in a previous supermini shootout done together with folks at NST Life & Times, I found that the Myvi effortlessly smoked other superminis with larger 1.5 liter engines.

Another thing to point out is the Perodua Myvi 1.3 liter uses a 4-cylinder engine, and 4-cylinder engines are alot smoother than 3-cylinder engines like the one found in the Perodua Viva. 3-cylinders have more vibration, which might end up being felt by you in the steering wheel and other points in the chassis.

Fuel Economy

According to Perodua’s own charts, the Perodua Viva 1000cc Premium can travel 17.5km per liter of petrol on a combined cycle which I suspect involves alot of light footed driving and highway cruising. This is for the manual transmission. The Myvi 1.3 manual is rated at 17.1km per liter of petrol. Very similar fuel consumption, however the people on the streets who actually own the Myvi 1.3 manual reports actual mileage of about 13 to 14 km per liter if driven frugally.

As for the auto transmission, Perodua says the Myvi 1.3 Auto can get 13.5 km per liter, however the average man on the street usually gets about 10 to 11 km per liter. Comparing it to the Viva 1.0 liter automatic, Perodua says it can get 15.1km per liter, so expect about 12km per liter in reality.

Thus we can assume the Viva automatic should be a little more frugal than the Perodua Myvi automatic, but for the manual transmission models actual fuel economy should prove to be about the same.

Space

The Perodua Viva is actually longer in the interior than the Perodua Myvi at 1845mm compared to the Perodua Myvis 1835mm, but a great margin narrower. Having a long interior is important, it ensures the rear passenger legroom is at comfortable levels, just like the Perodua Myvi’s. However, being narrower the downside is you can’t really fit 3 people in the rear bench comfortably, making the Perodua Viva more of a 4-seater than a 5-seater. The Viva’s boot is only 149 liters with the rear bench upright compared to the Myvi’s 255 liters, significantly smaller, however you can extend this size by dropping the rear passenger bench to create a 449 liter space.

Ride and Handling

Nothing much can be said about the Perodua Myvi’s handling abilities other than the fact that it’ll probably get you to work and back safely. From what I’ve heard from some journalists who’ve driven the car, I think I shouldn’t expect much of the Viva’s either. Which is a shame as the Kelisa was a somewhat fun drive. Many will miss the Kelisa’s zippy DNA which is reportedly missing in the new Viva. If you want a driver’s small car, go get the Proton Savvy.

Equipment levels

One thing I am concerned about is the lack of an integrated CD player head unit in the Perodua Viva, which means Viva owners will have to be careful about where they park their cars lest their mirrors get smashed and their head units stolen. However, this means the CD player can be easily swapped.

The equipment level of the Perodua Viva 1.0 liter standard is disappointing to be honest, not even proper alloy wheels are supplied, instead you are given steel wheels. This means a difference of roughly RM4k on average gets you airbags, ABS, proper alloy wheels, wing mirrors with signal lamps, roof spoiler, and etc. I’m really not sure if it’s worth it or not – I’ll leave it up to you.

The Perodua Myvi on the other hand has just about everything you need in the baseline 1.3 liter model. It also feels more premium because of an interior design that looks abit more higher grade, as well as Optitron-style meters which are self illuminating, unlike the backlit meter clusters of the Perodua Viva.

Safety

Both the Viva Premium and Myvi Premium have dual airbags, antilock brakes – the usual stuff. The Perodua Myvi’s Japanese cousin the 2005 Daihatsu Sirion scored a 4 star score in the Euro NCAP crash test for adult protection, while crash test results of the previous gen Daihatsu Mira that the Perodua Viva is based managed a 3 star rating.

Price

Perodua Viva 1000cc MT Solid: RM36,800
Perodua Viva 1000cc MT Metallic: RM37,200
Perodua Viva 1000cc AT Solid: RM39,800
Perodua Viva 1000cc AT Metallic: RM40,200
Perodua Viva 1000cc Premium MT Solid: RM40,800
Perodua Viva 1000cc Premium MT Metallic: RM41,200
Perodua Viva 1000cc Premium AT Solid: RM43,800
Perodua Viva 1000cc Premium AT Metallic: RM44,200


Perodua Myvi 1300cc MT Solid: RM43,007.60
Perodua Myvi 1300cc MT Metallic: RM43,530.80
Perodua Myvi 1300cc AT Solid: RM45,912.60
Perodua Myvi 1300cc AT Metallic: RM46,435.80
Perodua Myvi 1300cc Premium MT Solid: RM45,912.60
Perodua Myvi 1300cc Premium MT Metallic: RM46,435.80
Perodua Myvi 1300cc Premium AT Solid: RM48,792.60
Perodua Myvi 1300cc Premium AT Metallic: RM49,315.80

The differences between the non-Premium and Premium versions of the Perodua Viva is roughly about RM4,000, while in the Myvi it is only about RM2,900 or so.

So yeah, Perodua Viva 1000cc Premium Auto Metallic at RM44,200 or the Perodua Myvi 1300cc Premium AT Metallic at RM49,315.80? That’s a difference of about RM5,000 there for a bigger engine, slightly more performance, a minor decrease in fuel consumption frugalness, a wider interior space, and a bigger boot.

The boot space doesn’t matter to me – both boots are too small for serious usage unless you put the rear bench seats down.

Is that extra RM5,000 to go from A-segment to B-segment worth it, or would you rather save the money?

Fuel Efficiency

The Fuel Efficiency Info That Might Be Useful To You

Compact City Cars

Hyundai i10 - 5.0litre/100km
Proton Savvy - 5.7litre/100km
Kia Picanto - 5.8litre/100km

Compact Premium Cars

Mini Cooper - 5.8litre/100km
Honda Jazz - 6.4litre/100km
Alfa Mito - 6.5litre/100km

Small Family Cars

Toyota Vios ‘J’ - 6.1litre/100km
Proton Persona - 6.75litre/100km
Honda City - 6.8litre/100km

Luxury Family Cars

Nissan Slyphy - 7.8litre/100km
Hyundai Elantra - 7.9litre/100km
Peugeot 407 - 8.1litre/100km

Premium Family Cars

Mercedes Benz B180 - 7.2litre/100km
Volvo S40 - 7.9litre/100km
Toyota Camry - 8.8litre/100km

Executive Cars

BMW 320i - 6.1litre/100km
Audi A4 - 7.4litre/100km
Mercedes C-Class 200K - 8.0litre/100km

Premium Executive Cars

Citroen C5 - 8.9litre/100km
BMW 525i - 9.4litre/100km)
Mercedes E-Class E200K - 9.6litre/100km

Super Saloons

Audi A8 - 9.9litre/100km
Mercedes Benz S-Class S350 - 10.0litre/100km
Lexus LS460 - 11.1litre/100km

Super Sport Cars

Lotus Exige - 9.1litre/100km
Porsche 911 PDK - 10.3litre/100km
Nissan 370Z - 10.5litre/100km

Super Sport Convertibles

SLK 200K - 8.1litre/100km

Volkswagen TFSi - 8.2litre/100km
Porsche Boxster - 9.4litre/100km

Performance Cars

Peugeot 308 GT - 6.8litre/100km
Mini Cooper S JCW - 6.9litre/100km
VW Scirocco TFSi - 7.6litre/100km

Pickup Trucks

Isuzu D-Max Hi-DEF Diesel - 7.6litre/100km
Ssangyong Actyon Sports Diesel - 8.0litre/100km
Nissan Navara Diesel - 8.2litre/100km

Compact MPV’s

Renault Kangoo 1.5 - 5.5litre/100km
Honda Stream 1.8 - 6.7litre/100km
Nissan Grand Livina - 7.6litre/100km

Luxury MPV’s

Mazda5 - 8.2litre/100km
Hyundai Starex Diesel - 9.6litre/100km
Ssangyong Stavic Diesel - 9.7litre/100km

Compact SUV’s

Ssangyong Actyon Sports Diesel - 8.0litre/100km
Honda CRV 8- 8.2 litre/100km
Audi Q5 TFSi - 8.4litre/100km

Luxury SUV’s

Volvo XC90 D5 Diesel - 8.5 litre/100km
BMW X5 3.0 Diesel - 8.7litre/100km
Audi Q7 3.0 Diesel - 9.9litre/100km

Hybrids
Toyota Prius Hybrid - 3.9litre/100km
Honda Civic Hybrid - 4.6litre/100km

Looks like the perodua car is not in the list.

Perodua Alza Sportier Version

 

The highest specification level of the Perodua Alza is actually a model called the Perodua Alza Advanced Version, which is basically based on the Alza 1.5 Automatic Premium and Manual Premium but with a few additional specifications. You can book this now but delivery will only start in March 2010.
You basically get a new bodykit which consists of front, rear and side skirts and a different rear spoiler. On the inside, you get leather seat covers for all the seats, but the leather treatment does not continue onto the door trim. Also provided is a 5 inch touchscreen LCD which has a Windows CE-based GPS navigation system with a SiRF Atlas IV chipset and 500MHz CPU. The LCD also displays a feed from a 150 degree lense reverse camera.
Finally, there is tinted film for all the glass in the Alza which Perodua claims is GPS and SmartTAG friendly. Perodua states the specifications as following: 95% IR rejection, 99% UV rejection, 70% light for the front windscreen and about over 50% light for the rest of the glass. This tint has a 5 year warranty against peeling, oxidisation, cracking, discoloration and fading. I assume that as an OEM option this tint is also JPJ-approved.
The Alza Advanced Version manual goes for RM66,490 for solid and RM66,990 for metallic, while the Alza Advanced Version automatic goes for RM69,490 for solid and RM69,990 for metallic. The S. Metallic option is missing because the Alza Advanced Version only comes in three colours – Ivory White, Ebony Black and Classy Purple, while the only special metallic colour is Pearl White.
I reckon you could probably get a good Garmin nuvi for under RM1,000 and add on a very good set of tint for about RM2,000 to RM3,000 or so maximum. If you don’t want the leather seat covers and bodykit you’re better off adding your own tint and GPS. Not sure about the cost of the reverse camera though.

Viva the Alza

 

The Perodua MPV finds winning ways to give motorists what they want.

IT sells some 7,000 units every month, is relatively cheap and has ample room for five passengers. It has a preppy engine and looks smart. It’s not expensive to maintain and retains its resale value. It’s not surprising therefore that the Perodua Myvi is the best-selling car in the country.

But what the Myvi lacks is decent rear boot space – which is particularly felt during the balik kampung ride during the festive season, or as the kids in the family grow bigger and bigger.

Would making a bigger Myvi be a step in the right direction?

Absolutely, say the people at Perodua, who feel they have a found winning formula in the Alza, a multi-purpose vehicle launched on Monday.

Looking much like a stretched, raised and pumped up Myvi, the new MPV has three rows of seats and can seat seven – its key attraction.

Alza, which is Spanish for “rise”, is also synonymous with “amplify, enhance and heighten”. The vehicle is slightly higher than the Myvi and has been stretched by 455mm, Its wheelbase is also longer by 310mm; in fact, it is close to the Toyota Camry – a good indication of its interior space.

Perodua managing director Datuk Syed Hafiz Syed Abu Bakar says the Alza, with its flexible seating configuration, can be turned into a car with a big boot when you don’t need the extra back seats for seven passengers.

“It’s like Superman. It becomes that when you need it,” Syed Hafiz said at a media preview of the MPV in Putrajaya earlier this month.

The introduction of the Alza is part of the second national carmaker’s dynamic move to offer vehicles that meet current motoring trends.

With the average size of most Malaysian families shrinking to four from six, Syed Hafiz says the majority of its potential customers don’t actually need a huge MPV.

“It just has to be a vehicle with the right amount of interior space. A size that is too large will also make the MPV clumsy and difficult to drive on narrow roads,” he says.

The Alza shares its underpinnings with the Daihatsu Boon Luminas and Toyota Passo Sette seven-seaters. Under the bonnet is a twin camshaft with dynamic variable valve timing (DVVT) 1.5-litre engine code named 3SZ-VE, similar to the type in the Toyota Avanza and Perodua Nautica.

Tuned for fuel economy, the Azla’s power is rated at 104bhp at 6,000rpm or five horses short of the Avanza and Nautica’s 109bhp. However, its maximum torque of 136Nm is the same as that of theirs.

“As the Alza is not too heavy at 1.1 tonne, its power-to-weight ratio with a 1.5-litre engine is pretty good,” says Syed Hafiz.

Transmission options are the four-speed automatic and five-speed manual while trim levels are the Standard and Premium. Front and rear brake set-ups are discs and drums, respectively, on both grades.

Front suspension is the MacPherson type while the rear uses the torsion beam with stabiliser bar.

Inside, the Alza comes in grey and light grey, with a centrally located instrument cluster that features a trip computer with readouts of average fuel consumption and how far you can go before the tank empties.

The temperature gauge is missing but the fuel gauge, speedometer and tachometer are still there.

With its higher roofline, the Alza gets more headroom for an airier feel.

The gearshift for the automatic is console-mounted, while that for the manual is located on the floor between the driver and front passenger. This arrangement allows the automatic variant to come with bench-type front seats with a 60:40 split, a feature rarely found in locally available MPVs.

In essence, the front passenger can slide over to the driver’s seat without having to get out of the MPV – useful when taking over the wheel after dropping someone off.

In our opinion, the third row seats are more suitable for children although adults can squeeze in there.

The second row seats are fitted on rails and can slide forward by 150mm to provide more legroom for third row passengers.

What’s more, the three rows of seats can be folded for a flat configuration.

Cup and bottle holders are scattered around the MPV, on the door pockets and armrests.

Although not equipped with air-conditioner vents for the second and third row seats, Perodua claims that the Alza has a more powerful cooling coil and blower fan than the Myvi.

“We have conducted tests and can say that third-row passengers will have enough cool air, even on hot days,” says Perodua Sales Sdn Bhd operation director Ahmad Suhaimi Mohd Anuar.

In addition, the Alza gets all-round ultraviolet protected glass that cuts down UV rays by 91%.

At the media preview, we get to try out both automatic and manual variants at Putrajaya. With four persons on board, performance on an uphill slope is still adequate but one has to remember that this is an MPV, and the engine needs to be revved a bit more.

Once speed has built up, however, little effort is needed to keep the vehicle on the move. The five-speed manual gives us a gutsier performance since the better spaced gear ratios allow for better use of the engine powerband.

The clutch pedal is not heavy and we reckon it won’t tire out our left foot when inching through a traffic jam.

According to Perodua, the Alza with automatic transmission promises a low fuel consumption of 12.7km per litre of petrol or roughly 14 sen per km on RON95 fuel. The manual variant is even more frugal – 15.5km per litre of fuel.

Available features across the Standard and Premium grades are headlights with projector elements, grille with chrome garnishing, LED tail lights and 185/55/R15 tyres.

The Premium variant has additional features like dual front air bags, anti-lock braking system with electronic brake force distribution and brake assist, fog lights, tail spoiler, audio system with Bluetooth/USB support and leather steering wheel with audio controls.

The trunk comes with a luggage lamp, an item that is sorely lacking in Myvis.

Available colours are solid Ivory White and metallic Medallion Grey, Glittering Silver, Ebony Black and Pearl White. The Premium variant gets the additional metallic Classy Purple.

Prices on the road start at RM56,000 for the Standard manual to RM64,000 for the Premium automatic.

The Advanced variant – delivery of which starts in March – will cost RM6,000 over the Premium version and will feature additional goodies such as body kits, leather seats, tinted windows, a satellite navigation system and reverse camera.

Perodua Nautica : Perodua Kembara

 

Perodua Nautica : Replacement Of Perodua Kembara

The Perodua Kembara was launched in 1998, and as one of the cheapest 4WD SUVs in the market, it took the lion’s share of the SUV market – 60% by 1999. The Kembara’s successor – the Perodua Nautica 4WD was launched today and Perodua seems to be approaching it differently, bringing it as a premium product imported from Japan (a first for a Perodua) with only one variant priced at RM89,900 OTR with insurance. While the Kembara took 60%, Perodua only intends to take 5% of the current SUV market, with sales of about 150 to 200 units monthly.

The Perodua Nautica is essentially a Perodua-badged version of the short wheelbase Daihatsu Terios/Toyota Rush. The front bumper and grille is different, and these along with the rear bumper are made locally in Malaysia, while the rest of the car comes completely assembled from Japan. For lighting, you get foglamps and projector halogen headlamps while the rear brake lamp cluster use conventional bulbs.

The chassis is based on a derivative of the Toyota Avanza platform but has additional reinforcements to make it 30% stiffer than its derivative models. The suspension design consists of MacPherson struts at the front and a live axle at the rear.

The longitudinally mounted 1.5 liter DVVT engine is the 3SZ-VE producing 109hp at 6,000rpm and 141Nm of torque at 4,400rpm. This engine is also found in the Rush and Avanza 1.5. It is mated to a single overdrive 4-speed automatic, and a full-time 4WD system which has a centre differential lock which can be activated from a button on the dashboard. It locks so that the front and rear axles rotate at the same speed.

The shifter for the 4-speed automatic is located in a more conventional position between the two front seats, unlike another more premium-looking design which is available which positions it at an angle more towards the dashboard, allowing it to be much more closer to the steering wheel so that hand movements between the steering wheel and shifter is minimal.

Time for some dimensions – the Perodua Nautica weighs 1,200kg, is 4115mm long, 1695mm wide and 1740mm high. Interior space is 1800mm long, 1385mm wide and 1240mm high. The width between the front passengers is 700mm, and seat height is 740mm. The wheels are 16 inch alloys with 215/65R16 tyres. The cargo area takes 380 liters, and the rear seats can be folded down for more luggage capacity.

Additional niceties include electrically adjustable and flipping wing mirrors and a multi-info display on the meter panel which displays a clock, average fuel consumption, external temperature and remaining travel range.